TRS Ironworks

Tonight was my second climbing competition in the Touchstone Roped Series, this time at Berkeley Ironworks (home turf!).

Final score: 2,428

90 points more than last month at Diablo Rock. Not much, but in general I feel much better about my climbing tonight than I did there - I felt my 10c/d flash there to be a fluke of my height, and I did lousy in my regular zone of 10b/10c. Tonight I flew up the b like it was no trouble, and ran out of time to try again on the c and d, but I think both the trouble spots are well within my grasp once I figure out the beta.

Mom and Dad came out to watch tonight, and it was really nice to show them what I spend so much time doing. Tor was there briefly, but his kids dragged him away, and Kat was there but spent her time climbing mostly with Jamie. Max and Ev were there too, and it was fun to compare notes with them on the different climbs. I really like these comps, I wish I could do more of them. I'll have to miss next month's at Pipeworks, but September 26th is the finale at Mission Cliffs, I believe, and I would LOVE to flash a 10d there. That's my goal.

TRS Diablo Rock

Top rope series at Diablo Rock

Score: 2,338

10a(o), 10a/b(o), 10b(first box), 10c(first box), 10c/d(o!), 10d(first box)

Well, it was both more and less than I expected. My performance was disappointing, particularly on the b and the c (the b had a long negative incline with pincher holds, and the c had a really tricky overhang, neither of which I had the strength for). The c/d was stemmy, and ridiculously easy, so I felt better about that, and I actually got further on the d than I expected to - almost to the second box.

I maintain my fairly low opinion of Diablo Rock. The walls just aren't terribly interesting (though the a/b and c/d were actually kinda cool), the vibe is more meat-market than Oakland, Berkeley or SF, and the music was godawful.

Also had my first cheat meal in two or three weeks - pizza and beer - kinda gave me a headache.

I'm looking forward to the next comp at Ironworks in a month. Hopefully I can do better in my real range (b or c - that c/d was just a fluke).

TRS Diablo Rock

Top rope series at Diablo Rock

Score 1,199

5.8(c) 5.9(c) 5.10a(2nd box) 5.10a/b (first move - no box)

I was pleasantly surprised and thrilled that I nailed a 5.8 and a 5.9 clean on the first try. And I only had trouble with the 10a when it got all negative incline-y at the end and my finger and arms just weren't ready to support my weight without resting.

A free competition, a free t-shirt and free pizza and beer - what could be better? (other than the aforementioned god-awful music :-P)

It was a good night and restored some much needed confidence.