Friday, December 19, 2008 by Daniel


Climbing at IW this morning with Tor:

ML10a(o), ML10b(f+), 10c(o), 10d(o)

I've learned that Ironworks keeps a supply of old half-ropes behind the stairs, there for anyone to use for mock-leading. This makes things considerably more convenient! I now resolve to try and mock-lead at least one or two climbs per session.

The 10a I started with was a fairly challenging one, with a long roof. I did it, but it was pretty pumpy. So it was no surprise that the 10b I did next proved challenging. It would've been a hard 10b anyway, with lots of small holds on a long negative (fucking Ironworks), and the clips were often pretty far off-route. I fell twice, and one of my clips was completely illegitimate. Hanging up the rope, I moved on to a 10c on the back wall that was a nice technical vert, with small holds that weren't so bad if you stayed way in close to the wall. Totally pumped, I finished up with a lovely 10d slab on the back wall that felt REALLY easy. I love slab. It's like ice cream.

I signed up for the lead-climbing clinic on Sunday night, which I'm really excited about. If today's 10b is any indication, I'm still a ways away from passing the test to get my lead card, but this is the next logical step in my training, and I'm really looking forward to it.

Because these climbing posts are so repetitive and unentertaining to non-climbers, I've decided to spice them up with climbing videos I've culled from the web. Here's a video of Ethan Pringle, a Touchstone climber, doing some loco-en-la-cabeza "bouldering." I'm not sure where the line is between bouldering and solo free-climbing, but I'm pretty sure this is way, way over that line.


g said...

What does your lead test involve? 10b is pretty stiff for a test, and you say its not enough!

Slab is great until you have to lead it...

Daniel said...

As I understand it, the lead test involves leading a 10c (sometimes it's a 10b, but apparently lately it's usually a 10c) with no falls that the tester doesn't tell you to take.

I have a friend who recently moved to New York, and she says the ratings there don't really bear much resemblance to the ratings here. So when I say 10b, it could be easier than you think it is.

g said...

Its true that ratings vary a lot from one place to another, even more inside than outside. Nonetheless, 10c can't be that easy! I would think the point of a lead test is to show you can do it safely more than lead a certain level.

On the other hand, it gives you additional motivation to get to the 10c level!

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