Monday, February 23, 2009 by Rebecca

Climbing and squating

5.9 (o), 10a/b (o), 10a(f), 10a (f++)

Tonight's climbing went pretty well. It felt strong. All of these climbs were new to me. The setters have been busy in IW since the last time i climbed there. It was great to get the first two climbs clean. The 5.9 was pretty straight forward. So was the 10 a/b. It had one slightly tricky sport, but I had watched Ynez climb it first, so I had a good sense of how to get past it.

The first 10a was a green one facing west on the first pillar. It's a little slabby to start, but about half way up it gets pretty negative incliny. It had one really tough move right in the transition from slab to -incline where I had to hang and think about how to do it, but after that I didn't hang again. Though i sort of speed climbed my way up the last half trying to get to the top before my arms failed.

The last climb was on the first pillar facing south. I've never climbed on this part of this pillar before - the climbs set here are usually more advanced climbs. This one had two little overhangs, and a small bit of negative incline, too. There was one part just before getting to the first overhang that stumped me and I had to try a bunch of times to get past it - and then i fell a couple times after that - but it was mostly due to pumped arms ... I don't think there was another spot that would have stumped fresher muscles.

After climbing, I decided to work just a little bit on back squats. The dismal thrusters and front squats from saturday are fresh in my mind, and i figure the only way to find the power in my squats is to do a lot more squats. I did 5 or 6 sets of 5 with the empty bar. On rep 4 of just about every set I had to really struggle to complete the rep ... with the EMPTY bar. I know there was probably some fatigue from the climbing but ... honestly ... that was just embarassing. Once I stood and took a couple breaths, rep 5 was usually easy enough.

One thing that seems guaranteed to bring my power and momentum to a grinding halt is the thought of and the act of pushing my knees out. I suspect weak adductors are a major cause of the lameness of my squats. I think my form has gotten pretty good, and my knees don't wobble as much as they used to - though the still will if i don't constantly think about sending them out - but I still have a long way to go. *sigh* i'm thinking maybe I'll try to thrown in a set of 10-15 squats whenever I get a chance during the day. Can't hurt as long as I'm using good form.

11:53-8:05 - only woke up once a little after 1 am.

9:15 12 oz coffee 2/3 cup 2% milk
12:30 1 cup cottage cheese w/ 2 oz slivered almonds and 1 tsp cinamon
2:20 1.5 oz spiced cashews
4:45 1 svg (1.75 cups?) kale & veggie sausage & black beans w/ walnuts and parmesean, 8 oz water
10:00 2 Tbs Almond butter
10:30 1 multiv, 4 omega-3, 2 glucosamine
11:30 2 magn/zinc/calc

Didn't really get a chance to eat dinner - not quite enough food today, but tomorrow is a full breakfast day so I should get plenty of calories tomorrow.

1 comment:

Jenn said...

I've discovered that when you're working form hard, even the light weights seem to suck more. I'm betting that you'll get stronger fast, though!

Sounds like y'all are having a great time with the salsa dancing!

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