Friday, January 2, 2009 by Rebecca

Climbing - mixed results

5.9-DNF, 5.9-o, 5.4-o (rescue mission), 5.10a-f, 5.10a-f, 5.10a-DNF

5.9 - this first climb on the second pillar looked pretty straight forward, but it had a fair bit of negative incline right from the beginning, and was a bad choice for a warmup. I fell about 4 times in the first 10 feet and just gave up. My muscles and my brain were just not ready to tackle this climb.

5.9 - this climb was on the back wall, and I usual;ly get along well with this wall. Everything went much better. There were still some clumsy moves, but i got to the top in good time and no major errors.

5.4 -we were climbing with our friend Tor today, and he brought his daughter Dakota with him today. She got to the top of a climb, and the rope around the pulley got looped over itself, and since she's so light, gravity was not bringing her down. I hoped on the rope next to her, and climbed up to untangle the rope at the top. Fun to play hero. She was a little scared about being stuck, but was a good sport about it.

5.10a - this is a white 10a at the south end of the west wall, near the crack climbs, that appeared to be nice and stemmy through a good book feature once you got past the first 10 feet or so. It definitely had some stemming, but it had a fair bit of NOT stemmy, and there was one spot on the wall where I couldn't find a good place to rest ON the wall, so i had to let go and rest on the rope. Once i took stock and got back up, I discovered that everything immediately after that spot was very friendly, and if i had only kept going, the next move would have taken me to an excellent resting spot. drats. good climb though.

5.10a - this was on the slab on the back wall. This is a challenging but fun climb. I fell on this one twice - once when I just didn't spot a handhold way off to the left, and tried (unsuccessfully) to balance my way through the move instead. I ALMOST had it. It would have been pretty cool to get the harder move. It was an easy move once i discovered the handhold. I love these technical problem solve-y climbs.

5.10a - this one started on the funny little overhang just under the arch to the back wall. this start ALWAYS sucks. I cheated my way up the first couple holds, and then got into a very awkward position with my right leg very high up trying to get over the edge, and kinda got stuck there, and i heard or felt a little pop in my knee and my hip, and decided that that was enough and needed to come down. It was hard though, and in order not to slam into the wall, I still had to get higher to get my right foot off that hold. it sucked. I hope my leg is ok.

Overall, except for kind of a lame beginning and end, it was a good day of climbing. I think my foot work is really starting to get a lot better, and I am more willing to trust my right foot more often. I find it really interesting how obvious it is when a move is just Right. It just feels solid and powerful. I'm getting that feeling more often on more of my climbs, and it's really satisfying!

No comments:

Post a Comment