Monday, December 1, 2008 by Daniel

11a: F%@k yeah!

I've been wishin' and waitin' and hopin' for this for a while:

Social climbing @ IW: 10a(o), 10c(o), 11a(f++), 10b(o)

OK, yeah, it wasn't pretty. The climb had more takes than a Judd Apatow scene. But I didn't hangdog - I just had to rest a lot, and it took 4-5 tries to figure out the crux, a big roof move from a jug undercling to a wide pair of slopers (it was the heel hook that got me there). After the crux, it was just a lot of vertical on fairly small holds with no pockets, and I had no forearms left. I'm anxious to try it again, though! I think after a few sessions to sort out the beta and find the best rests I might be able to do the whole thing clean.

The rest of the session was fun, too. The 10a was fairly simple but went way off plumb, which is always a little hairy. The 10c was a pretty hard one, full of small pockets on negative wall, so a lot of finger strength. The 10b was quite friendly, despite its two roofs - large holds and a big fat rest halfway up the wall made it pretty easy.

It was fun climbing with CFEB folks: Ev, Max, Andrea, Chuck, James, John, and even Polly tried a couple topropes before retreating to the "safety" of the bouldering wall.

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