5.9(c) 5.9(c) 5.9(f+) 5.9(f++)
Tonight we invited our Crossfit friends to meet us at the gym to come climbing with us, and a few of them took us up on the offer.
The gym was really crowded tonight, and whenever it was my turn, the 10a's were all taken, but there are several very difficult 9's so I worked on those instead. My 'Into the White' 10a is gone :(
I warmed up on the easy 9 in the back.
The second climb i did is the red 9 on the middle pillar. James - our friend who was new to climbing tonight (but still managed to flash 2 10as fall once on a 10b and send a couple bouldering routes!) was belaying me - and he belays looser than I am used to - not dangerously so - just ... looser - and I actually find it to be rather motivating to not fall ... a little anxiety can go a long way towards making it expedient to make that next hold. In this instance I made it up a climb I likely would have rested at least once on.
The third 5.9 was a black one on the same pillar - with a large overhang bit right near the top of the climb. I was doing really well until I got to the overhang - and then I just couldn't quite figure out how to get over it. I think it was a right foot trust/strength issue. I did eventually make it over - but it was pretty much a couple inches at a time. Once I made it to the top, I stopped at that part on my way back down, and tried again to figure out how to get up - and still couldn't do it.
The last climb was a 5.9 Jim set near the campus board. I was tired, and I think Jim was in a bad mood today or something because it was a mean mean climb. I fell a lot. I'll have to revisit it with fresher muscles and see if it makes more sense then.
Monday, November 17, 2008 by Rebecca
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3 comments:
Huh, good to know about the effect a looser belay had on you. Will you likely practice more with that in the future or do you prefer to feel more secure?
Becuase of my propriaception issues, and my penchant for unexpectedly slipping off foot holds, I find it really scary to be on a loose belay. I really prefer feeling more secure. That said, I probably will start to try to work with a looser belay - particulrly on easier climbs - just so i can get used to not having it there.
Trying to find a place to climb indoors around here, without much success. The closest place is the Crux at Wake Forest, and I think it's only open to students and faculty.
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