5.9 (c) 5.10a (f+) 5.10a(f+++) 5.10a(c)
Warmed up on the 5.9 by the wall near the campus board. the start of the climb has a slight negative incline, which left my forearms feeling a little pumped, but I did the climb clean and controlled.
Then I tried a pink 10.a on the back wall that has a very tricky start , has a ledge you have to climb up on in the middle, and then you have to get back on the wall sort of above you. I fell a couple times on this climb. I fell a LOT on the first 3 moves on the start, and I fell once after getting to the second half of the climb. I made it to the top without too much trouble after that ... but it was not a terribly graceful climb.
Next was a second attempt at "into the White." It didn't go a whole lot better than the first attempt. I did not cheat on any movements, but I rested - a LOT. I'd really like to watch someone climb it who knows what they're doing - because I came down from this climb just thinking that it is mean mean mean. If anything it gets HARDER not easier after the overhang. A lot of really unfriendly holds that require good finger strength.
Daniel had said that he was concentrating on 'tree sloth' climbing - smooth and steady movements instead of big dynamic movements. So I decided to try to concentrate on that with this climb, because, philosophically, that approach makes sense to me, but for most of the movements, I just couldn't figure out how to make it to the next hold without 'jumping'. It was really annoying to get to a hold, and realize the next hold was like 3 feet above me.
The last climb was a 10a on the slab on the back wall that I've been wanting to do for weeks now, but there's always been somebody on the rope. It was fun. Definitely required some balance and slow steady movements - daniel said it looked good, and it felt good.
Friday, November 14, 2008 by Rebecca
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